Dining 6 min read

Ten Seats, One Seating: Getting Into the Chef's Counter

The hardest table in the capital is ten stools around a kitchen pass. Here's how the release works, when to book, what the $195 buys, and why the pairing is worth it once.

Priya Sharma · Food & Beverage Editor 21 September 2025

The 30-Day Release

Seats release thirty days out at noon, and weekend allocations typically go within the hour — residents get first call before public release. The wait-list moves more than people expect: cancellations in the final 72 hours free a surprising number of stools.

What the Arc Looks Like

Seven courses composed as a single argument — raw to fire to sweet — plated ten centimetres from your glass. The menu rewrites every Tuesday around what the farms and the smokehouse produced; nothing survives the weekend intact, which is the point.

Two and a half hours, one seating at 18:30. Phones photograph freely; the kitchen considers it a compliment. What they ask is presence — the counter is dinner as theatre, and the theatre rewards attention.

The Pairing Question

The $110 pairing pours bottles most restaurants can't justify by the glass — Coravin lets the sommelier open a Jura oddity for two pours. Worth it once in your life; optional forever after. The non-alcoholic pairing, built on ferments and teas, is genuinely considered rather than a concession.

Etiquette at the Pass

Ask questions — the chefs plate facing you deliberately. Flag allergies at booking, not arrival. And arrive hungry: the bread course is a trap everyone happily falls into.

A tasting menu is an argument made in courses — the counter just lets you watch the chef make it.

Chef Mara Ellison

Plating at the counter pass
Course seven: the sweet finish

The Takeaways

  • Seats release at noon, 30 days out
  • Residents get first allocation — book with the room
  • Wait-list moves inside the final 72 hours
  • Allergies at booking, never at arrival
Priya Sharma portrait

Written by

Priya Sharma

Priya covers the restaurant program — every menu rewrite, every pairing argument, most of the calories.

Reader Questions

Asked After Reading

The arc starts together at 18:30 — fifteen minutes of grace exists, but later arrivals catch courses mid-flight. The dining room à la carte is the better option on tight evenings.
Yes — full buyouts are available for private groups and priced as the private dining format. The kitchen composes a bespoke arc for the table.
Signatures survive a week at most — the Tuesday rewrite is a kitchen rule. Guests who return quarterly genuinely get a different restaurant each time.
The Dispatch

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